Guides and Tips for Your Water System

Potable Water

Make sure that the water you’re using is safe and potable. At West Slope Water Well, we recommend that water, especially well water, should be tested on a yearly basis. Contact our professionals to perform a coliform test on your well water.

Benefits of Chlorination

If your well water fails the coliform test, we suggest that you chlorinate your water system. Chlorination can disinfect your water system and get rid of the harmful bacteria.

However, if the bacteria are in the aquifer or if your well is in an unsanitary condition, the bacteria will more than likely return. That being said, chlorination can be used as a first step in solving most bacterial contamination problems.

Chlorinate Your Water

Chlorine can be used to disinfect your water system effectively. If your well is the source of the contamination, follow these steps for chlorination:

• Remove the well cap, concrete lid, or pipe plug to allow direct access to the well. Attach one end of a hose to an outside faucet. Place the other end into the well so that it discharges into the well
• Run water through the hose and into the well at the rate of 1 to 3 GPM. While you’re running the water into the well, pour the amount of bleach as determined by the chart in section #3 (5.25% Sodium Hypochlorite, unscented only) into the well
• Continue running the water for 20 to 30 minutes or until approximately 100 gallons of water has been run back into the well
• When the water coming out of the hose smells of chlorine, spray it over the walls of the well as well as the seal, cap, or concrete outside the well. Be careful of the electrical wiring and turn off the hose
• Inside the house, open one cold water faucet at a time and let it run until you smell the chlorinated water. Turn off the faucet and repeat this process with every cold water faucet in the house
• Turn on one hot water faucet and run until the chlorine smell is detected. This may take several minutes to do because hot water heaters have a large volume of water to displace. Repeat the process with the other hot water faucets until chlorinated
• Chlorine must stand in the pipes for a minimum of eight hours and a maximum of 36 hours to be effective. During this period, you’ll need an alternative source for drinking, cooking, laundry, and plant watering

If you have a cistern or any other type of storage tank, it’s possible that this is the source of your water contamination problem. Airborne bacteria can enter the cistern and propagate in its unique environment. You can follow the steps listed above to chlorinate the water in your cistern.

Keep in mind that the volume of the cistern (from 100 to 3,000 gallons) is a factor in the dilution of the chlorine. Occasionally, the cistern will need to be chlorinated separately. At this point, direct the hose into the cistern and create a swirl in the entire volume of the tank.

Next, add 1 cup of chlorine per 31 gallons of stored water while continuing to put water in the cistern. Continue this process until the water from the hose smells of chlorine; then, wash down the walls and the lid of the tank as you did with your well.

The volume of water treated predominantly determines the amount of chlorine to be used. Well drillers and pump installers often use 100 parts per million (ppm) of chlorine to disinfect the well after their work. This is significantly higher than the amount a household treatment will require.

Generally, around 1+ppm of free chlorine is sufficient for household treatments. A chlorine test kit may be used to measure the concentration. The chart given below shows the concentration needed for 100 ppm in 100 feet of water as recommended by the USDA.

USDA Recommendations

Chlorine compound required to dose 100 feet of water at 100 ppm.

Post-Chlorination Care

Your water will be quite strongly chlorinated when you finish the treatment. To remove the chlorine from the water, the well and / or cistern must be emptied of the chlorinated water. You can do this by watering your lawn. Chlorine dissipates from water when sprayed into the air.

During winter or when the water supply is limited, it’s advisable to have an alternative source of water for drinking, cooking, watering indoor plants, and so on until the chlorine is at a more tolerable level. To check whether the water you’re going to use is safe and potable, perform another test 24 hours after chlorine is no longer detected in the water.

Coliform treatment should be given on an ongoing basis. There are several methods that can be applied. contact us and let our professionals help you decide which one is best for your home.

Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Systems

Most R/O systems filter water to a bottled water quality level of purity. Water initially passes through a sediment filter which physically removes suspended particles. The reverse osmosis membrane then removes dissolved material in the water, which then enters a small storage tank prior to activated carbon filtration. The carbon filter removes any remaining tastes and odors from the water. To improve the R/O’s effectiveness, many water supplies may require other pre-conditioning units. We suggest a wide spectrum analysis of the water be performed prior to any treatment installation.

Impurities in Water

Being a universal solvent, water dissolves something of everything along its way. After it has run over the surface of the ground or percolated through several rock layers, the number of impurities will greatly increase. The quantity of the dissolved impurities is governed by:

• The solubility of the minerals
• Temperature and pressure
• The length of contact

Hardness of Water

The hardness of water is a measure of the calcium and magnesium ions in the water. The ions are components of dissolved salts such as carbonates, sulfates, chlorides, and nitrates. The calcium salts are about twice as abundant as the magnesium salts.

The standard domestic measurement of hardness is grains per gallon (GPG). One grain per gallon is equivalent to approximately 17.4 parts per million (ppm). 7,000 grains equal a pound. Approximately, 1/4 ounce of mineral in 1,900 gallons equals one part per million.

The hardness of water varies greatly depending on the water supply. The range from slightly under 1/2 GPG to over 100 GPG covers practically all natural fresh water supplies. Water hardness is classified as follows:

• 0 to 1.0 GPG - soft water
• 1.1 to 3.5 GPG - slightly hard water
• 3.6 to 7.0 GPG - moderately hard water
• 7.1 to 10.5 GPG - hard water
• 10.6 or more GPG - extremely hard water

Water with greater than 1 GPG has the potential to deposit scales on fixtures, in pipes, and in water equipment such as hot water heaters.

Hard Water Treatment

Hard water is usually treated with the help of an ion exchange process, commonly known as water softening. Softening by ion exchange uses resin beads that, in effect, bind the hardness-causing ions within its matrix.

A sodium chloride or potassium chloride brine solution is used to regenerate the resin when its capacity to remove hardness is diminished. The brine knocks the hardness ions off the resin, so it can be flushed away.

Iron in Your Water Supply

Iron is one of the most troublesome minerals encountered in domestic and commercial water supplies. The various forms of iron can leave stains and deposits that range in color from yellow to brown, but commonly have a "rusty" color. As an organic residue, it may be gray to black, and slimy to rock solid. Iron can also impart undesirable odors and tastes to water.

Iron occurs in many forms in natural water supplies. The most common forms are described below:

Dissolved Iron

Ferrous bicarbonate [Fe(HCO3)2] is found only in oxygen-free water. Dissolved iron is measured in parts per million (ppm). One ppm is equivalent to approximately 1/4 ounce of iron in 1,900 gallons of water. The recommended limit of iron in drinking water is 0.3 ppm and will begin staining at 0.5 ppm. The water containing it is clear and colorless when drawn. Upon contact with the air, oxygen is absorbed and reacts with the dissolved iron to form insoluble ferric hydroxide (commonly known as rust). This clouds the water and colors it in shades of yellow to red-brown.

This reaction produces carbon dioxide as follows:

2Fe(HCO3)2 + 1/2O2 + H2O = Fe(OH)3 + 4CO2

The dissolution of the above carbon dioxide in water also forms carbonic acid. The presence of carbonic acid lowers the pH, and results in low alkalinity of water (2-3 gpg total solids). This can cause some corrosion problems in the system. Filtration through a neutralization media is then required to remediate this. The neutralization media commonly used is composed of calcium carbonate such as limestone, or marble.

Small quantities (less than 0.5 ppm) of ferrous iron, in the absence of dissolved oxygen, may be removed by ion exchange water conditioning. If this method is used, a chemical resin cleaner is required to be added to the brine. This will help remove the exchanged iron and prevent any oxidized iron from fouling the resin bed.

Ferrous iron, in higher concentrations, is most commonly removed by a two-step oxidation then filtration process. Chlorine, oxygen, and potassium permanganate are the most common oxidizers used. The filter media is most commonly manganese greensand.

Insoluble Iron

Insoluble ferric hydroxide in water produces a red water condition. It is found in some natural waters as a suspension of fine, denser-than-water particles. More often ferric hydroxide, in water, is formed when exposed to oxidizing conditions, like percolating from a spring, or being exposed to air at a water tap.

Another source of insoluble iron is from the action of bacteria. Bacteria can produce ferric hydroxide or iron carbonate as a waste product. Chlorine fed into the well or before the pressure tank will control this type of bacterial nuisance.

Manganese and hydrogen sulfide compounds are also found in ground water. Due to their chemical similarities to the above discussed iron compounds, they can be treated and removed from the water using the same methods described above.

Water Well Production

The amount of water produced by water wells varies greatly throughout Colorado and is dependent upon many factors, the most important being well location and water source. The amount of water needed by Coloradoans also varies greatly and there is no one well production rate considered “acceptable” for all situations.

The average person uses between 80 and 100 gallons of water per day. Outside irrigation usage is not considered in this figure - those with even small lawns will need significantly more water. Special consideration must also be taken by those frequently hosting gatherings or entertaining house guests.

Some lenders feel a well producing 2-3 gallons per minute provides an adequate water supply for a single family dwelling. A 3-gallon per minute well will produce approximately 4,320 gallons per day. There is also additional water stored in the well itself. For example, a 400-foot deep well with a static level of 60 feet (the distance from the surface to the water) would hold approximately 500 gallons of water. Thus, up to 500 gallons of the 4320 gallons produced but not used would then be stored for future use.

Wells producing less than 2-3 gallons per minute may easily provide an adequate water supply. The amount needed is entirely dependent upon each person’s water usage. If a well’s production is less than adequate, there are several methods that will increase the supply. Installation of a water cistern, either an underground concrete unit or an inside poly storage tank, will greatly increase the amount of available water. Residential cisterns usually hold between 200 and 4800 gallons of water and, once in place, will be continually filled by the well pump. Another option for increasing water supply would be to hydrofracture the well. This process involves using pressurized air or water to expand fissures in the well, allowing for greater water flow into the well. If neither of these options is feasible, it is possible to drill a new well.

A prospective home buyer should insist on a well flow production test performed by persons licensed by the State of Colorado as either water well drillers or pump installation contractors. Flow rates can fluctuate throughout the year and may even change significantly if large amounts of water are drawn from the well supply by surrounding developments. Natural events can also alter the amount of water entering the well. Therefore, we recommend that a buyer not use results from previous years as an indication of current flow.

While a well’s production rate is vital knowledge to a prospective home buyer, so is the quality of water produced. A portability test for coliform bacteria is essential. Coliform can cause severe gastrointestinal discomfort and may even be life threatening to young children and the elderly. Many other water analyses are also available, from simple hardness and iron tests to tests for VOCs, pesticides and heavy metals.

Water Well Terminology

• Additional storage: Cisterns or other water storage tanks from which water is pumped into the house
• Drawdown: The distance that the water level in the well is lowered by pumping. It is the difference between the static water level and the pumping level
• Initial production: The maximum volume of water expressed in gallons per minute (gpm) which the pumping system discharges at the initial static level, demonstrating the satisfactory performance of the pumping system
• Pumping level: The lowest water level reached during the pumping operation / cycle
• Regeneration rate: The volume of water, expressed in gallons per minute (gpm), which the well produces independent of well storage or additional storage. This rate is established when a stabilizing pumping condition has been reached and the yield does not change by more than ten percent during the last hour of the test
• Static level: The distance, in feet, from the ground surface to the level of water in the well prior to any pumping
• Total production: The total volume of water, expressed in gallons, which the pumping system discharged during the duration of the test from well storage and regeneration
• Well depth: The depth of the well from the ground surface to the well bottom. The depth could be reported by the owner, listed on the driller’s well log or estimated by the service person performing the well test
• Well storage: The volume of water, expressed in gallons, which is available for immediate use within the well at the start of the test

Real Estate and Water Wells

The Safe Drinking Water Act passed in 1974 requires that state and local governments with public water systems must comply with maximum contaminant levels for the National Primary Drinking Water Regulations (NPDWR). Contaminant levels are determined for any ingredient of water which may adversely affect a person’s health. They are set with an adequate margin of safety. Water treatment techniques for each contaminant are also prescribed under the law. The NPDWR are enforced at the federal level unless a state has requested and obtained primary responsibility. Secondary regulations are recommended for aesthetic quality only and are not enforceable.

Prior to the purchase or sale of a home you should require proof that your drinking water is potable and of sufficient supply. The agreement you make when purchasing a home should be contingent upon written proof that the water supply is potable, sufficient in quality and palatable. If the water is not tested prior to closing, part of the purchase price should be held in escrow to cover a new water system or an upgrade of the existing system.

The owner of a residential property with its private system should supply you with the following information:

• Location, type of well, and construction
• Type of material used in the construction of the pipes leading to the house
• Location, type, and age of the pump
• Location of any septic systems in relation to the well

Determine what treatment systems are currently installed and why they are needed. Ask the following questions:

• Is the water supply being softened and by what process?
• Is the water supply bacteriologically safe?
• Is the present method of treatment adequate for your needs?
• Is the present method the best available for your specific water problems?
• What is the age of the present water treatment system? Has it been checked by a licensed professional?

Most problems associated with poor water quality are treatable. The equipment needed to provide the most agreeable supply of clear, odorless and tasty water varies for each particular site. Below are common problems with residential water supply and acceptable methods of treatment:

• Soap scum, bathtub rings, and / or spots on glassware can be treated with an ion exchange system such as a water softener, as can scaling and low-sudsing action of cleansers.
• Unpleasant taste, smell, or color can be removed through distillation, reverse osmosis, or carbon filtration systems
• Bacterial contamination can be eliminated using chlorination, ultraviolet systems, or microfiltration
• Corrosion on pipes or water heaters can be treated with chemicals
• Pesticide and / or industrial halogen contamination can be treated with an activated carbon filtration system

The maximum contaminant levels established by the NPDWR, the EPA or the Colorado State Health Department are listed below:

mg/l = milligrams per literppm = parts per million

ppm = mg/l

pCi/l = picocuries per liter

Water Conditioning and Treatment Systems

Water quality is a concern for all homeowners. Unfortunately, not all of the water flowing from the tap is the pure, fresh water one’s body desires.

Water containing minerals and dissolved metals causes many problems – bath tub rings, shower scale and water spotting, along with residues left on skin, clothing and hair. Mineral-laden water is more expensive to heat, requires the use of additional soaps and cleansers and shortens the life of household appliances. Heavy metals, such as lead, cause very serious health problems; even minuscule amounts can accumulate in one’s body and will become a problem later in life. Colorado’s hard water, in general, also has higher levels of radon, uranium and other radioactive compounds than those found in other areas of the United States.

Water containing microorganisms pose many health problems. Most people are aware that coliform, cholera and hepatitis can be major health risks, but don’t understand to what extent they can damage the human body. Water from springs, lakes, improperly constructed wells and other untreated water sources should not be consumed unless first properly treated. Even residents drinking chlorinated city water will profit from the additional peace of mind provided by disinfection systems. In mid 1999, Greeley’s city water supply was accidentally infested with giardia. Chlorine-resistant cryptosporidium protozoa was discovered in Milwaukee’s water. Other microorganisms pose minimal health risks but can seriously damage the water system itself. Iron and manganese reducing bacteria produce a solid or slimy material that clogs pipes and tanks. Some bacteria produce a corrosive hydrogen sulfide gas, leaving the water smelling of rotten eggs.

In 26 years of water treatment experience, West Slope Water Well has developed water systems that provide homeowners with quality, drinkable water. The following list details several of the systems we provide:

Water Softeners

Most multi-media water conditioners feature standard cation exchange resin for the removal of hardness and low concentrations of iron. We offer water softeners that not only perform this function, but also utilize granular activated carbon media to treat or remove chlorine, some pesticides, herbicides and volatile organic chemicals. Other components can be incorporated to remove iron, excessive sulfides, and the offensive tastes and odors associated with these contaminants. We also provide our customers with a healthy alternative to the sodium chloride used in most water softeners – granular potassium chloride media. Your body will feel the benefits, your plants will thrive and your water will taste better. Potassium chloride also promotes the growth of important bacteria inside septic systems.

Hardness is classified as follows:

• 0 to 1.0 gpg - Soft water
• 1.1 to 3.5 gpg - Slightly hard water
• 3.6 to 7.0 gpg - Moderately hard water
• 7.1 to 10.5 gpg - Hard water
• 10.6 or higher gpg - Extremely hard

Reverse Osmosis Drinking Water Systems

Most R/O systems filter water to a bottled water quality level of purity. Water initially passes through a sediment filter which physically removes suspended particles. The reverse osmosis membrane then removes dissolved material in the water, which then enters a small storage tank prior to activated carbon filtration. The carbon filter removes any remaining tastes and odors from the water. To improve the R/O’s effectiveness, many water supplies may require other pre-conditioning units. We suggest a wide spectrum analysis of the water be performed prior to any treatment installation.

Ultraviolet Water Filtration and Sanitation

An effective ultraviolet system utilizes the “C” band of ultraviolet light to kill 99.99% of bacteria and viruses commonly found in drinking water. This treatment is preferred for several reasons: harmful bacteria and viruses are killed or rendered sterile to the point they are no longer damaging, and the harmful side effects of chemical agents on the septic system are negated. Installation of a staged filtration method prior to the ultraviolet unit provides a very effective treatment method.

Chlorination of Water Systems

Sometimes the demands placed upon a water system require chemical treatments, which can include injection of liquid chlorine or the addition of dry-pellet chlorine to the water. Either method adequately treats unsafe water and removes hydrogen sulfide from domestic water systems.

Keeping Your Well Water Safe

For rural residents, wells are the most important source of water for their family, animals, landscaping and crops. A turn of the tap brings water for drinking, cooking, livestock, irrigation and many other uses.

Because water is so valuable, it’s critical that well owners make every effort to keep their well water free from contaminants. It is important to know state regulations for the construction of safe wells as well as the chemicals that may be used in the vicinity of the well.

A combination of four major factors determines whether a chemical is likely to reach ground water: properties of the chemical, properties of the soil, conditions of the site and chemical use management practices. Runoff into nearby surface water is also affected by these factors. The potential for water contamination can vary greatly, depending upon the site and the effects of the factors listed above.

Chemical containers often contain information regarding the material’s potential to leach into ground water. If you can’t find the information you need, the Cooperative Extension Service, USDA’s Soil Conservation Service, EPA or manufacturer can provide information on the leaching potential of different chemicals.

Intelligent Landscaping and Gardening

To protect your well water, carefully consider your choice of chemicals, cultivation practices and types of management for your garden, soil, land condition, weather patterns and topography. These decisions are especially important if you landscape in an environmentally sensitive area – one with highly vulnerable water supplies, wildlife or waterfowl.

Managing chemicals doesn’t necessarily mean a greater burden for you. It just means everyone must use chemicals in a safe, environmentally conscious manner. Safe use of chemicals, fertilizers and lubrication fluids protects not only your drinking water, but your neighbor’s as well.

How to Reset Your Low Pressure Cut-off Switch

If your water well system is equipped with a low pressure cut-off switch, you will need to reset it if the water pressure drops below a desired point. The drop in pressure may occur if you attempt to use a greater volume of water than either the well or well pump can produce. The most common use for this switch is as well pump run-dry protection. Since the switch shuts off the pump when the pressure drops below about 20 psi or so, in most cases it will turn off the pump’s motor if the well runs dry. However, if the well runs dry while the pressure tank is being filled, the switch may not shut off the pump.

The following are the instructions for resetting the switch, assuming your pressure switch is a Square D Pumptrol Model FSG-2-M4, an extremely common switch (pictured below):

• Turn off all water faucets and water using appliances
• Hold the lever at a 30-degree angle
• Watch the pressure gauge next to the tank - it should start to rise at a steady rate. If the pressure does not rise within one minute then release the lever. Wait one hour and repeat the steps
• If the water pressure starts to rise, hold the lever in the same spot until the pressure exceeds 25 psi. Release the lever and the system should take over on its own
• You may want to take some time and note how long your pump cycles on and off. If it runs on and then is off within a few seconds, you may want to call us to check the pressure tank. Such rapid cycling can damage the well pump
• Pat yourself on the back; you just saved yourself a service call

If you have any question please feel free to call us at (970) 773-9344

It's official, I have a blog and I know how to use it.

Household Water Filter

Do you notice any change in the flow, taste, color, or odor of the water that’s filtered from your water filtration system? Well, it might be time to change the filter cartridge. Ideally, household filter cartridges should be changed every 6 months. Replace your filter cartridge easily by following our instructions.

Filter Change Instructions

• Turn off the water supply to your filter system
• If you have a valve-in-head unit, rotate the handle on top of the filter housing to the off position. If your unit is not the valve-in-head model, there may be valves plumbed in front and behind it; make sure they’re all closed
• Release the water pressure in the filter housing. Typically, a red button is present that allows you to do this. It’s normal for water to escape from the release during this process
• Unscrew the filter housing using a filter wrench or a strap wrench. You can even use a large pipe wrench, but take care not to damage the unit. It’s common for the O-ring in the filter housing to stick to the cap
• Remove the used cartridge and discard it. Rinse out the filter sump and fill about 1/3 of it with water. Add about 2 to 3 tablespoons of unscented bleach, scrub thoroughly and rinse
• Remove the O-ring or gasket from the sump (or cap) and clean the groove and the O-ring. Use a silicone grease to lubricate the O-ring and replace it in the groove. This step is important to ensure proper sealing when you reassemble the filter system
• If the O-ring is crimped or damaged, contact us for a replacement O-ring
• Insert the new cartridge into the sump making sure that the filter is centered and that the bottom of the filter is over the standpipe
• Screw the sump onto the cap and tighten it by hand. Make sure the filter slips over the cap standpipe. Do not over tighten
• Turn on the water supply to your filter housing slowly. If you’re using a valve-in-head unit, slowly rotate the lever on top of the unit back to the on (filter) position
• Depress the pressure relief button (if present) to release trapped air from the housing
• Check the unit and valves for any leaks

Important Points to Remember

An activated carbon cartridge may contain a small amount of carbon fines (very fine black powder) and a new cartridge. After they are installed, your water filter should be flushed properly with water to remove the fines before using the water.

It’s recommended that you run or flush the tap at least 10 seconds prior to using the water for drinking or cooking purposes. This is particularly important if the water tap is not used daily.

Certain types of harmless bacteria will attack cellulose material. Cartridges containing cellulose may seem to disintegrate, produce a musty or moldy odor, or form a black precipitate due to the bacteria. If you notice any of the above problems while using the cellulose media cartridges, switch to a synthetic media cartridge.

Your water filter must be protected from freezing. Failure to do so may result in cracking of the filter and lead to water leakage.

All filtration systems contain other parts that have a limited service life. Quite often, expiration of the service life of those parts cannot be detected easily.

It’s usually only after leakage or water damage has been detected that you become aware that the service life has been exhausted.

To prevent costly repairs or possible water damage, we strongly recommend that the bowl or sump of all plastic housings be replaced periodically - every five years for clear sumps and every ten years for opaque sumps.

If your sump has been in use for more than the recommended period, it should be replaced immediately. Be sure to date any new or replacement sump for future reference and indicate the next recommended replacement date.

Whether you need help with installation or maintenance of your water filter system, you can count on us for quality service at reasonable prices. We have some useful information on how to disinfect your water system.

Blog posts are a great way to get recognized within your community and share your voice. Here are the top 10 reasons you should love writing blog posts.

Importance of Balancing Your Pressure Tank

Whether you have installed a new pressure tank or your old tank is losing air pressure, balancing it properly will prolong the pump life and give you a steady water pressure. All you need to balance your pressure tank is a tire gauge, an air compressor or a bike pump, and a lot of energy! If you need any assistance, West Slope Water Well is always here to help.

Steps to Follow Before Balancing Your Pressure Tank

Before you attempt to balance your pressure tank, make sure that the tank bladder is not burst. Check this by following the below-given instructions:

• Shut down the power to your pumping system
• Turn on the faucet until the water stops. This ensures that there’s no water left in the tank
• Most tanks can be wiggled back and forth. Shaking it too hard can cause a break in your plumbing. As you shake the tank lightly, if it feels heavier than it should or you hear water sloshing inside it, please give us a call. Our certified technician will come to your home to evaluate the condition of your tank and repair it, if necessary
• You’re now ready to balance your tank

Instructions to Balance Your Pressure Tank

• Run water from a faucet and note the pressure at which the pump turns on and off
• Turn off the power to the pump. Turn the faucet on until the pressure gauge reads 0 and the water stops
• Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge at the air valve located on the tank
• Adjust the air pressure in the tank with your compressor or bike pump to 2 psi less than the pump turn-on point. If you have a low-pressure cutoff switch, you may want to set it to 5 psi less than the cut-on point
• Turn the power to your pumping system back on
• Run water and watch the pressure gauge to see if the on / off cycle is smooth
• If the needle has any fast jumps, repeat the above steps

If the problem persists after repeating the above steps, please don’t hesitate to contact us. Have our technician come over to your home and assess the condition of your tank and repair it for you, if necessary. We provide 24/7 emergency services for your convenience!

Raise the Pressure of Your Pump

If your pump is unable to produce more pressure, you can adjust the pressure switch and rebalance the pressure tank to achieve greater pressure. To change the pressure setting, you’ll need a 5/16” hollow-stemmed nut driver, a voltmeter, a tire gauge, and an air compressor or a bike pump.

Both the pressure settings (30/50, 40/60 and so on) and the 20 psi factory preset range (on at 40, off at 60) can be altered. However, we recommend that you don’t change the preset range or raise the pressure over 65 psi on most switches.

The following instructions can be used to raise the pressure of a Square D Pumptrol Model FSG-2, an extremely common switch.

• Run the water and write down the pump-on and pump-off pressure readings
• Turn off the power to the pump and lock itRun the water until the pressure gauge reads 0 and the flow stops
• Check the air pressure in the pressure tank with the tire gauge at the Schrader valve located at the top of the tank
• Raise the air pressure in the tank to 2 psi less than the pressure at which you wish the pump to start pumping (i.e., for a 40 psi switch-on pressure, the tank should have 38 psi)
• Remove the cover from the pressure switch
• With your voltmeter, check for power at the pressure switch (L1- L2, T1-T2) to verify that the power is off
• With your 5/16” hollow-stemmed nut driver, tighten (clockwise) the nut on the taller spring down. We use 1/4 turn for 1 psi as a rule of thumb; however, this varies greatly from switch to switch. Try not to raise the pressure more than 5 psi higher than your target pressure. Otherwise, damage to the bladder of the tank can occur
• Replace the cover to the switch and turn on the power
• Watch the pressure gauge as the pump fills the pressure tank. If the pressure gets higher than 5 psi above the desired off point (20 psi above the desired turn-on point) shut off the power to the pump and loosen the tall spring until the contacts on the switch open. Then, replace the cover on the pressure switch and turn the power back on
• Run the water again and write down when the pump turns on and off